As seen during the 2013 Oscars, vintage jewelry and diamonds continue to live in the spotlight, as evidenced by the Fred Leighton 19th Century oval and cushion cut diamond bracelet worn by Jennifer Aniston. But do you know the storied history behind your favorite vintage diamond cuts?

Centuries ago, diamond cutting was a slow process. The less material the cutter removed from the original rough diamond crystal, the more quickly he completed his work. Diamond cutters wages were penalized if they took too long or removed too much material. Therefore, the typical cut during this time was actually a squarish, sometimes slightly oval cushion-brilliant, or what most in the jewelry industry now refer to as an “old mine cut.” The defining characteristics are an often squarish shape and the diamond’s crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) are both much deeper than today’s standards.

Early mechanized, steam-driven factories in Amsterdam best illustrate how diamonds were cut in Europe and throughout the world at the time. Coster’s Amsterdam cutting house – in the mid-1800’s was the largest diamond cutting establishment in the world, still employed a labor-intensive process that included three phases of operation, each requiring workmen with specialized skills: 1) splitting or cleaving, 2) cutting, and 3) polishing.

Plot diagram.

Three events led to the more modern styles: in the 1870’s a “bruting” machine gave the diamond a round outline and the first angle gauges led cutters to use the angles associated with today’s modern cuts. In 1900 the circular saw came into use, making it far easier to split the typical octahedral-shaped diamond rough crystal into two pieces making it possible to cut the smaller top piece into a finished diamond, rather than just grinding it away. By 1902, many in the industry realized that using the saw saved weight from the common octahedral diamond crystals, which meant that the new proportions could be cut without expensive waste of diamond rough, shifting the emphasis from weight recovery to the beauty of the styles that we see today.

Natural yellow, old mine cut diamond.

These old-fashioned cutting techniques may have changed, but the gems from that era have a charm all their own, waiting for you to discover.

Discuss why you think vintage diamond cuts are a trend that is here to stay!

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Spring flowers were in full effect this auction season with two outstanding multi-color gemstone necklaces.

On April 17, Sotheby’s New York auctioned a beautiful necklace featuring diamonds and colored stones stylized as thirteen anemone flower heads of various hues. The necklace is a combination of 46.86 carats of round near colorless diamonds, 7.45 carats of black, pink and yellow diamonds, in addition to pink sapphires, amethysts, garnets, iolites, pink tourmalines and spinels. This Michele della Valle design sold for $149,000, in line with its estimated value of $125,000 to $175,000.

18 Karat White Gold, Diamond and Colored Stone ‘Anemone’ Necklace, Michele della Valle. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s.

On May 15th, Christie’s in Geneva auctioned a 1961 Bulgari platinum, sapphire and diamond flower necklace at their upcoming “Magnificent Jewels” sale. This necklace, much like the Michele della Valle “anemone” necklace, is designed as a series of graduated flower heads. The stunning floral design is created with circular-cut sapphire petals and pistals as well as oval-shaped diamond pistils and pear-shaped diamond petals . This outstanding piece was estimated to sell between $310,000 to $400,000, and sold for $535,061.

Sapphire and diamond flower necklace, by Bulgari. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images LTD. 2013.

As seen by the two pieces described above, jewelry design strives to mimic nature and is often inspired by nature’s boundless variation of colors and shapes.

The post Spring Auctions Showcase Part 6: A Shower of Flowers appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Sports cars and jewelry may not seem to have much in common, but take a closer look and you’ll see that they frequently share common design elements: sleek lines, polished metal, bold color palettes and more. These design choices project status, power, and affluence; qualities likely to appeal to men.

Ever seen a pair of cufflinks masquerading as hubcaps? These high-polished metal pieces sure look like them. And the matte black and fire-engine red color scheme is likely to appeal to men who love sports cars. The same goes for the geometric symmetry of the circle-within-a-circle-within-a-circle design.

Cufflinks image courtesy of Craig Selimotic Danforth.

This ID bracelet looks like a motorcycle chain in many ways. It is made of two-toned metal, has a continuous locking pattern, and flathead screws that are integral to the design. These elements make for a bold, masculine statement that any motorcyclist would feel comfortable wearing while riding.

Many would say the lines of this channel set diamond ring resembles the grille of a car. And its angular shape mimics a hood ornament. It’s easy to imagine these design similarities winning over car enthusiasts.

Channel set ring image courtesy of Gem East Corporation.

Matte black and fire-engine red are popular color choices for fast machines. The designers of this watch clearly paid homage to these speedsters with the same bold palette. In another nod to automotive design, the watch’s spokes and dials are designed like a dashboard and the stitching in the band is similar to the stitching you’d see in a vintage car seat.

Most recently, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Ford Mustang, 49 companies used the car’s logo on watches, cologne, commemorative Mustang leather jackets, nail polish, video games, die-cast models, apparel, “and probably a million other products,” according to an April 2013 article in Marketing Daily.

Design crossovers between the automotive and jewelry industries is nothing new, and now you too can see how some of men’s favorite toys have impacted the personal style of men’s fashion and jewelry design.

The post Designs In The Fast Lane: Celebrating Father’s Day with Men’s Jewelry & Sports Machines appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The legendary beauty of June’s luminescent birthstone has been celebrated for centuries. We explored the pearl’s history and lore, the various types of pearls available, and how a pearl’s value is assessed and what to look for when purchasing a pearl. Now we are going to discuss how to care for one!

Pearls are one of the more delicate gemstones, so they require extra care. Avoid wearing pearls when cleaning the house or doing yard work to avoid scratching. Chemicals contained in perfume and the ingredients in makeup and hairspray can eat away a pearl’s nacre, causing it to dull permanently. Cleaning products containing chemicals such as ammonia and chlorine should also to be avoided, so don’t ever wear your pearls in the pool!

Pearls need a certain amount of moisture to retain their beauty, so avoid storing them in airtight or overly dry environments. Luckily, the human body provides just the right amount of moisture to maintain a pearl’s effervescent luster. Pearls are made to be worn and enjoyed!

Here are some more great tips to help keep your pearls as beautiful 50 years from now as they are today.

• The best way to clean pearls is with a soft, damp cloth, ideally after each time they are worn.
• Pearls should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Warm soapy water is safe, assuming the nacre is in good condition. Make sure strung pearls are completely dry before wearing.
• Store pearls separately from gemstones and metal jewelry, which may scratch their surface.
• Never store your pearls in a plastic bag. Plastic can emit a chemical that will damage the surface of pearls. The same is true of cotton wool.
• Don’t store pearls in a safe deposit box for long periods of time. Like your skin, pearls need a little moisture so that they will not dry out.
• Always apply perfume, hair products and cosmetics before putting on your pearl jewelry.
• A good rule of thumb is: when dressing, pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off.

We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about pearl care. If you are looking for more information on these spectacular gemstones, you will enjoy our new book ‘Splendour & Science of Pearls‘.

The post Caring for June’s Birthstone: Pearls Part 4 appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

Celebrated for its mesmerizing beauty, the Grace Kelly of gems is June’s elegant birthstone–the pearl. We previously discussed the pearl’s history and lore, and the different types of pearls. Now let’s delve into how a pearl’s value is assessed, and what to look for when purchasing a pearl.

Though most known for creating the 4Cs and diamond grading standards, GIA also created a standard for describing pearl quality – the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors™. These factors are:

1.    Size: Measured in millimeters,  and rounded to the nearest 0.5 mm

2.    Shape: Described as Round, Near-round, Oval, Button, Drop, Semi-baroque and Baroque

3.    Color: A combination of the pearl’s dominant body color, overtone and orient. Body color takes into account hue, tone and saturation. Overtone is a noticeable translucent color that appears to layer over the pearl’s body color. Orien
t is the mixture of colors shimmering just below the pearl’s surface.

4.    Luster: The light reflected from the pearl’s surface, evaluated by the intensity and sharpness of the reflection. Luster is evaluated according to the following scale:

• Excellent – reflections appear bright and sharp
• Very Good – reflections appear bright and near sharp
• Good – reflections are bright, but not sharp
• Fair – reflections are weak and blurred
• Poor – reflections are dim and diffused

5.    Surface: Evaluated based on the blemishes or irregularities in the pearl’s surface, taking into account the size, number, nature, location, visibility and type of surface characteristics. Surface is rated by the following scale:

• Clean – blemish-free, or containing minute surface irregularities that are difficult to see
• Lightly spotted – only minor surface irregularities are visible
• Moderately spotted – noticeable surface blemishes
• Heavily spotted – obvious surface irregularities that might affect durability

6.    Nacre Quality: Nacre quality is determined by its thickness and layering. hen the thickness of the nacre coating on a bead cultured pearl is too thin or damaged, appears chalky, or if the bead can be seen through the nacre, it may impact the pearl’s ability to sustain normal wear.

• Acceptable – nucleus not noticeable; no chalky appearance
• Nucleus visible – pearl(s) show evidence of bead nucleus through the nacre
• Chalky appearance – pearls have an obvious dull appearance

7.    Matching: This measurement only applies to a strand of pearls, or jewelry pieces with multiple pearls, by assessing the uniformity of all the pearls in the piece.

• Excellent – uniform in appearance and drilled on-center
• Very good – very minor variations in uniformity
• Good – minor variations in uniformity
• Fair – noticeable variations in uniformity
• Poor – very noticeable variations in uniformity

Pearls are often treated to improve color, shape, surface appearance, weight and durability. Pearls are porous, which allows them to accept many treatments more readily than non-porous gemstones, while their softness permits them to be shaped fairly easily. Treatment processes may include bleaching, heating, dyeing, irradiation and coating to improve color; peeling to improve shape and or surface appearance; or filling and impregnation to increase weight or enhance durability.

So how can you be sure about the quality of pearls you’re buying? GIA Pearl Reports provide in-depth information about detectable treatments, the pearl’s origin, its growing environment and the mollusk species that produced it. The report includes a quality description based on the GIA 7 value factors described above.

Please join us for the final installment of our June birthstone blog series where we’ll share valuable tips on how to care for your pearls!

Does learning about these factors help simplify your decision-making process? We’d love to hear from you!

The post 7 Factors Describe June’s Birthstone: Pearls Part 3 appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

June’s lustrous birthstone is celebrated around the globe for its compelling beauty. Earlier this week we discussed the source and history of the pearl. Today we’ll be diving into the various types of pearls.

Natural saltwater pearls are extremely rare and valuable. They are most often found in the Arabian Gulf (or Persian Gulf), where 70-80 percent of all natural pearls were discovered until the 1930s. Natural pearls can also be found in, the Red Sea and Strait of Manaar. Occasionally, natural saltwater pearls are unearthed in Baja California, Venezuela, Myanmar, China, Japan, India, French Polynesia, Australia and Africa – the same regions that have cultured pearl industries.

The majority of pearls on the market are cultured pearls. Cultured pearls are formed with human assistance under controlled conditions in pearl farms around the world. Technicians insert a bead or piece of tissue into a living mollusk, and the mollusk responds by depositing layers of nacre over the irritant, which over time gives rise to a miraculous pearl.. Cultured pearls fall into four types :

Akoya
• Environment: Saltwater
• Colors: White or cream with yellow, pink or blue hues and overtones of pink or green
• Size: Typical size range is 6 mm to 7 mm. You may see them as small as 2 mm and as large as 10 mm

Tahitian
• Environment: Saltwater
• Colors: Black, gray, silver, brown. Overtone colors can include blue to green, purple, yellowish green and pink.
• Size: Typical size range if 8 mm to 14 mm

South Sea
• Environment: Saltwater
• Colors: White, cream or silver, with yellow, orangy yellow or blue hues and overtones of pink, green or blue
• Size: Usually 15 mm and larger but can be smaller

Freshwater
• Environment: Freshwater, usually cultured in lakes and ponds
• Colors: white or cream with yellow, orange, pink or purple hues and overtones of pink, blue or green
• Size: Typical size range is 4 mm to 14 mm

Different environments and different mollusks produce different types of pearls, which makes cultured pearls a fascinating enterprise. Next up in our June birthstone series, we’ll provide some insight into how pearls are graded and their value is determined.

Do you have a favorite type of pearl or pearl color? Please share!

The post The Varieties of June’s Birthstone: Pearls Part 2 appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

The luminous pearl is June’s coveted birthstone. This enchanting treasure originating from the sea is a timeless wardrobe staple, beloved by fashion icons including Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel. In this four-part series, we’ll be (1) sharing the source and history of pearls, (2) exploring different pearl varieties, (3) assessing factors behind pearl value, and (4) learning about how to care for your pearls.

A black-lipped oyster, which produces the Tahitian pearl.

Pearls are organic gems that form inside the tissue of a living mollusk (either an oyster or a mussel). The mollusk secretes a substance called nacre when an irritant such as a piece of sand or a parasite invades its shell. The mollusk continues to secrete layers of nacre, until the nacre-covered speck becomes a pearl. This process usually spans the course of two years.

Isla Margarita pearls. Image courtesy of KCB Natural Pearls.

Pearls come in an abundance of sizes, colors and shapes, which are determined by the unique conditions in which they form. Natural pearls are rare; cultured pearls are divided into freshwater and saltwater varieties in controlled pearl farms around the world. Cultured pearls are formed by inserting a bead or a piece of mantle tissue into the mollusk. It is estimated there are approximately 100,000 species of mollusk, but only 14 are used to produce cultured pearls.

This 450-carat, natural baroque freshwater pearl was once owned by Philip Henry Hope. © Christie’s Images / The Bridgeman Art Library.

The pearl has been beloved by royals throughout history. Queen Elizabeth the First is adorned with huge pearls in many of her portraits. Cleopatra was said to have two of the largest pearls in the world in her possession. Legend has it that she dissolved and drank one of them at the world’s most expensive banquet. The other pearl was cut into two pieces and placed in the ears of Venus in the Pantheon at Rome.

There is more to learn about pearl lore, as well as interesting facts on our Gem Encyclopedia pages.

Don’t forget to tune into the next segment of our June birthstone series, where we take a deeper look at the various types of cultured pearls!

There are many influential celebrities and historical figures who have donned pearls through the ages! Who is your favorite pearl jewelry icon and why?

The post The History & Lore of June’s Birthstone: Pearls Part 1 appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

With the return of The Great Gatsby, which is in theatres now, we’re reminded of the Roaring Twenties, a time of prosperity in the United States. Skyscrapers sprung up in major cities, jazz rang out from speakeasies and Charles Lindbergh made the first non-stop transatlantic flight. It was a decade known for automobiles, radios, telephones, skyscrapers, and flappers.

The role of women was also changing. Entering the workforce en masse during World War I, women gained their right to vote in 1920. During this time, women wanted a new style, something that complemented their modern mentality and new freedom. Enter Art Deco, a style that celebrated the machine age and symbolized the opulence and advancements synonymous with the decade.

Patsy Ruth Miller, and American film actress.

Art Deco jewelry evoked elegance and sophistication. Departing from the soft curves of the earlier Art Nouveau movement, Art Deco featured linear lines and geometric patterns such as arcs, circles, triangles, squares, and rectangles. These stylistic choices reflected the futuristic feel of this progressive society as seen in these platinum, emerald, sapphire, and diamond chandelier earrings.

Art Deco chandelier earrings made with platinum, emeralds sapphires and diamonds. Measures approximately 3 1/2″ long.

Jewelry featured platinum and white gold as well as bold color contrasts, a stark contrast from the pastels of Art Nouveau jewelry and colorless stones of Edwardian jewelry. Some popular Art Deco colored gems included emeralds, sapphires, onyx, coral, jade, and rock crystal quartz as well as diamonds and rubies, which can be seen in this jewelry set by Mauboussin, circa 1930.

Art Deco carved ruby and diamond necklace and earrings by Mauboussin circa 1930. Image courtesy of a private collector.

Design elements from ancient cultures also played a large role in Art Deco design. Robert Ackerman, instructor of Jewelry Manufacturing Arts at GIA Carlsbad says that: “Art Deco artists were simultaneously taking from the past and looking to the future. This was a unique combination, and created a distinctive style that gripped the imagination of the public.” Inspiration was taken from artists like Michelangelo and Rembrandt but also from Egyptian art and architecture, as seen in this belt buckle, circa 1920.

1920 Piel Freres belt buckle. Image courtesy of Ginger Moro.

Because of technological advancements, the 1920s became a time for sophisticated jewelry design. New steel tools cut gemstones more accurately, electric engines mechanized polishing wheels used for faceting, and abrasives allowed for finer trimming.  These innovations made it possible for jewelers to create pieces with complex designs such as the one seen in this platinum, sapphire and diamond pendant.

Art Deco platinum, sapphire and diamond pendant/brooch, circa 1925. Courtesy of Frank Goodman & Son, Los Angeles, CA.

Though nearly a century has passed since its birth, Art Deco is still very much alive and well. The influence of Art Deco can be seen in the recent Tiffany & Co. catalog and high-end jewelry stores. In fact, Rolls-Royce recently released a statement saying, “In homage to this golden age we have created three Rolls-Royce Art Deco cars…these highly bespoke motor cars are inspired by the timeless designs, colours and motifs of the movement.”

Art Deco jewelry promises a bright future and for that we will be forever enamored. F. Scott Fitzgerald hit the nail on the head when he penned: “Gatsby believed in the green light, the orgiastic future that year by year recedes before us. It eluded us then, but that’s no matter— tomorrow we will run faster, stretch out our arms farther. . . So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.”

If you are interested in seeing the contrast between Art Deco and Art Nouveau jewelry design, check out “Art Nouveau Jewelry”.

Header image courtesy of Frank Goodman & Son, Los Angeles, CA.

The post The Timeless Allure of Art Deco appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

As the saying goes, “April showers bring May flowers,” and May’s birthstone – emerald – perfectly symbolizes this renewal of life. It comes as no surprise, then, that emeralds have been such a focal point of auctions this spring.

Christie’s auctioned a stunning emerald and diamond ring on May 15 in Geneva. The platinum ring is set with an exceptionally large cushion-shaped Columbian emerald weighing approximately 23.28 carats, and diamond line shoulders. The estimated value of the piece was $1,300,000 to $1,800,000; however, since a natural emerald from Columbia of this size  is so rare, it could sell for significantly more.

23.28 carat cushion-shaped emerald and diamond ring. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images LTD. 2013

Christie’s New York auctioned a fancy color diamond, emerald and white diamond ring on April 16, ultimately selling for over three times its estimated value. This special ring features a 9.72 carat cushion-cut Fancy Intense yellow diamond surrounded by  pear-shaped emeralds and diamonds, mounted in gold and platinum. The piece, which had an estimated value of $180,000 to $220,000, sold for $699,750.

GIA quality analysis: The diamond weighs 9.72 carats and is Fancy Intense yellow; natural color; VS1 clarity; accompanied by a working diagram indicating that the clarity may be improvable.

Fancy Intense yellow diamond, emerald and diamond ring. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images LTD. 2013

On April 17 in New York, Sotheby’s auctioned a platinum, gold, diamond and emerald necklace circa 1910. The piece is set  with 18 marquise-shaped diamonds and 18 emerald-cut emeralds. It sold for $1,385,000, significantly more than the estimated value of $400,000 to $600,000.

GIA quality analysis: Three of the diamonds in this necklace were graded by GIA. Total carat weight for the diamonds is approximately 47.00 carats and the emeralds add approximately 11.00 carats. .

Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Emerald Necklace, circa 1910. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s.

Emeralds are regal stones with mass appeal. Whether a buyer is looking for something to withstand the tests of time or something elegant and reflective of Spring, auction houses know that emerald pieces are desirable.

Interested in learning more about why emeralds are  treasured? Visit the Emerald page of our Gem Encyclopedia or you can check out one of our articles on May’s birthstone “May Birthstone: The Brilliant Green Emerald”.

The post Spring Auctions Showcase Part 5: Emeralds appeared first on GIA 4Cs Blog.

From flawless diamonds to fancy colors and fancy shapes, this auction season has seen many historic pieces of jewelry, with more still to come.

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the diamond necklace/bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips*.

On May 14, Sotheby’s in Geneva will feature 23 important jewels of the 1950s and 1960s from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida, 13 of them, including a trophy, are from Bulgari. The majority of the pieces were worn by Miss Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career and the Bulgari pieces were showcased in the international touring exhibition, “Bulgari – 125 Years of Italian Magnificence” from 2009-2012.

Not only a legendary Italian photojournalist and sculptor, Miss Lollobrigida starred in many Hollywood films including Beat the Devil, Trapeze, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, Solomon and Sheba, Never So Few, and Come September, opposite some of Hollywood’s most iconic actors, such as Humphrey Bogart, Burt Lancaster, Tony Curtis, and Frank Sinatra. As a humanitarian, Miss Lollobrigida worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, and FAO, so it is only natural that part of the proceeds from the sale of her Bulgari jewels will go toward benefitting stem cell research.

Certain to gather great attention at the auction is a 1954 diamond necklace and bracelet combination, favored and worn by Miss Lollobrigida on numerous occasions including her acceptance of the Henrietta Award for World Film Favorite Female presented at the 1961 Golden Globes . The estimated value of this exquisite jewelry set is $300,000 to $500,000. Update: The final sale price was $783,850.

Magnificent diamond necklace-bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954*.

Another highlight of the upcoming sale is a 1962 ring set with a cushion-shape 19.03 ct. diamond. The piece is stunning and has an estimated value of $400,000 to $800,000. Update: The final sale price was $783,850.

19.03 carat diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962*.

A pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants will also be auctioned. The pendants were often attached to the diamond ear clips mentioned below and worn by Miss Lollobrigida to many public occasions, most notably while meeting Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. The estimated value of this pair of pendants is $600,000 to $1,000,000. Update: The final sale price was $2,391,321.

Pair of magnificent natural pearl and diamond pendants*.

Also being auctioned are three separate emerald and diamond pieces from 1964. The first is a pair of diamond ear clips,, worn with the natural pearl and diamond pendants above) with detachable emerald and diamond pendants, with an estimated value of $150,000 to $250,000. Update: The final sale price was $306,633.

Next is an emerald and diamond ring, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 cts. surrounded by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, is set to be auctioned with an estimated value of $120,000 to $180,000. Update: The final sale price was $181,049.

Finally, an emerald and diamond brooch, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 cts., estimated to sell between $150,000 and $200,000.

Emerald and diamond pieces from 1964*.

Do you have a case of spring auction fever? Check out our Spring Auctions Showcase series to admire some of the other majestic jewels making appearances at auction houses this year: Fancy Color Pieces, Fancy Shapes in Necklaces, or Flawless Diamonds.

*Jewels from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida. Images courtesy of Sotheby’s.

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